Hello Friends! I needed a console table in my dining area and I just couldn't find what I was looking for at my regular "go-to" furniture and home decor places around town. Either the console tables were too wide, too short or too expensive. So I did some research and decided to build it myself. This console table build uses 3 pieces of wood and the overall dimensions are 72in (L) x 11in (W) x 36in (H). I really wanted to share this build with you because the dimensions can easily be adjusted to fit your space, if you are needed something thin and sleek. You can also paint the whole table or half of it ( like I did ) to make it uniquely yours.

The Vision

This is the actual picture of what I had in mind when I started this project. I usually sketch out my plans first with dimensions and then make a supply list and head to the home improvement store. At the time I was not sure if I wanted the table to be 5ft or 6ft hence the two different lengths that you see below. You can also see that the final product looks a little different, for example I removed the middle divider.

Trial and error friends thats what its all about..trial and error.

Supply List

• 3 - 2 in. x 12 in. x 8 ft. Southern Yellow Pine Wood *
• Wood Glue
• 2 1/2 in. pocket hole screws
• Wood pocket hole plugs
• 8 - 2 1/2 in. Double Wide Corner Braces
• 120 grit sandpaper
• Minwax Wood Stain - Golden Pecan
• All Purpose Primer
• Matte Black Paint
• Polyacrylic Clear Gloss

_{* It is important to note that the actual size of the wood is 1 1/2 in. x 11 1/4in.}

Cuts

• 1^st piece of wood cut at 6ft. (top)
• 2^nd piece of wood cut at 69 in. (shelf)
• 3^rd piece of wood cut 2 - 35 in pieces (legs)

Tools

• Sander
• Saw ( I used a circular saw for cuts)
• Pocket Hole Jig
• Drill
• Router with round-over routing bit

Instructions

Examine the wood and decide which pieces would be best used for the top, legs and shelf. If you have a wood piece that has more defects than others then you may want to use it for the legs and vice versa. Make your cuts. Once you have your cuts, sand all pieces down with 120 grit sandpaper until smooth. It would be a good idea to use your electric sander at this point to save time and elbow grease. Next, use your router with round-over routing bit to round the edges of all your wood pieces. Then lightly sand pieces a final time. Next place four evenly spaced pocket holes on one end of each of the legs. This is where the legs connect to the top wood piece on the interior/medial side. See image.

Then place four evenly spaced pocket holes at each end of the top side of the shelf wood piece. You should have a total of eight pocket holes on the top side of the shelf. This is where you will connect the shelf to the interior legs. Next stain the top wood piece and prime the shelf and legs. Once the primer is dry, paint the legs and shelf with the black paint. When the stain is completely dry and you are happy with the look of it apply the Polyacrylic Clear Gloss to the top shelf. I also painted the corner braces with the matte black paint so that it blends in seamlessly with the legs and shelf. When you have everything painted and dry it is finally time to assemble the table. Start by attaching the shelf. The top of the shelf measures 10in down from the top leg. See image below.

Attach the shelf using wood glue and 2 1/2 in. pocket hole screws at each end. Next attach the top with the wood glue and pocket hole screws. Then place your corner braces on the underside of the shelf and top wood piece, two in each corner. I drilled pilot holes so that the braces fit as flush as possible. Finally, plug the pocket holes with the wood plugs and paint.

You did it!

Thoughts and Lessons

Overall, I like how the table turned out and it's perfect to hold our little things as we go in and out of the house.

A couple of lessons that I learned from this project are to pick the best-looking and straightest pieces of wood from the store. This will save you time and frustration from trying to figure out how to make it level.

When putting the table together, I noticed when I touched the matte black paint I could see my dust fingerprints left behind. This was not easily wiped away with a dry towel. In hind site, I should have applied a clear matte polyurethane once the paint had dried. This would have taken care of that problem.

You can definitely use wood filler for dents and knots in the wood to help get that smooth, sleek look. Just be sure to lightly re-sand afterwards.

This table is HEAVY. I assembled this table in the house because the entrance to our dining room is a little wonky due to the stair case. You definitely need a partner to help with lifting.

Disclaimer: I am not a professional wood worker/carpenter. I am just someone who enjoys working with wood. Lone Pear disclaims all responsibility for any damages or losses arising from any action or decision taken while constructing or using items. Please make sure that all times are sound before use.